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I don’t know why it is that no matter how long I have to prepare for something I always end up cramming at the last minute to git ‘er done. After Tom pulled two almost-all nighters performing test packs, I revisited my college days and passed up on sleep Saturday night to make the final preparations for boarding our first flight on Sunday morning. I was up to the task because I had been well fed Saturday night by Tom the chef. Even though the Titanic was sinking around us, Tom spent a decent chunk of his time that evening preparing his famous pasta bar. It is my personal favorite of his culinary creations, and McKane requested it as his “last meal in America.”

We arrived at the airport a mere hour and a half before our flight was scheduled to depart, but surprisingly there was no line at Delta’s international desk. Lou and Lorelie parked the two cars that served as our airport shuttles and joined us in the terminal to oversee the check-in process. Despite Tom’s packing, repacking, and packing again, we still had too much stuff and too much weight. We shuffled some items around and passed inspection, checking two bags, while carrying on six and a skateboard.

Happy to finally be on the move…

Toilet stalls in Korea

Our first flight took us to San Francisco, our second to Seoul, Korea on Korean Air, which Kieran and Asher dubbed the Pepsi plane (check out their logo to see why). Tom was sure I had messed myself up on the jetlag front by sleeping for five hours on the first long haul flight, but he forgot about my sleeping superpower. In fact most of us (i.e., everyone but Asher and whoever was caring for her at the moment), slept the majority our second 11 hour flight, which was a redeye from Seoul to Auckland. There is so much I could say about our 36 hours in transit, but I can’t hold up the post pipeline, so I’ll defer for the moment. The only truly remarkable (and frightening) fact about our travel experience was the fact that I unintentionally made it through two airport security checkpoints with a large bottle of liquid hand sanitizer. Remember, we’re on Terror Threat Level Orange. So much for my confidence in the TSA.

We touched down in New Zealand and cleared customs, which can be tough since you have to declare all food items (we declared chewing gum) and any clothing items that might be carrying soil upon penalty of a $200NZ fine. I called our new friend at the New Zealand Tourism Board who told us to come into Auckland to pick up our media passes, which will hopefully help us see and do many things we otherwise would not. We took a cab driven by a quiet Maori woman, and then proceeded on foot to the incredibly helpful tourist office at the Sky Tower where we booked our ultra-deluxe Campervan for the 17 days we will be here. The driver who took us from the Sky Tower to the rental facility gave us a primer in New Zealand/American relations. A burly, red-faced fellow, he was not unfriendly, but he made it clear that we hail from a country of diminishing power and fading reputation. He assured us that members of his generation still view America favorably, but that the younger generation of New Zealanders have little patience for our politics and deem us shallow. This is true, he explained, because 90% of Americans never leave their homeland and don’t really care about the world beyond their own borders. New Zealanders on the other hand typically leave the country for a period of 5-10 years to gain a broader perspective and increase the scope of their experience. The flavor of the month for young Kiwis is currently Europe and sometimes Canada. Some of this time may include a stint at university, which he dismissed as “codswollop.” College is wasted on most students, he argued, since they learn little that is relevant in real life and simply treat it as a four year party.

The sting of our driver’s heavy-handed rhetoric faded as we came into sight of our new home–a 6-berth deluxe campervan. We prepaid for our 17-day rental and left a $2000 deposit in case we cause any damage. (We’re hoping we get it back in the end or we might be home sooner than we expected.) McKane, Kieran, and Asher were delirious with joy and explored every inch of the vehicle. They named it the “Big Rolling Turd” in homage to Robin Williams’ recent theatrical masterpiece, “RV.” We stocked up on groceries at the nearby Pack ‘n’ Save and proceeded to the nearest campground that offered internet access. As it turns out the internet access is limited to the owner running her DSL cable out the window for us, but it’s a small price to pay for the really nice shower facilities and the spectacular view we woke up to.

The kids spent the morning running the beach, collecting shells, and chasing ducks. We’re packing up right now and heading north to the land of sheep and the Maori. This is going to be a good year.

Technorati Tags: Family Travel, Korea, New Zealand, Airport security, Packing, Round the World, Round-the-world, RTW, Travel

Today we go from being a family who talks about going around the world to a family who is going around the world.

38 hours after leaving Salt Lake we will be landing in Auckland New Zealand.

much more to follow…

Technorati Tags: Round the World, Round-the-world, RTW, Salt Lake City

When Brigham Young settled the Salt Lake Valley in 1847, he did it according to a well laid plan. As the leader of hundreds and soon thousands of pioneers, he realized that the urban vision he unfurled would determine the rhythms, patterns, and eventual success of the Utah colony. Building on plans drafted by his predecessor, Joseph Smith, Young designed a city characterized by uniform block and lot sizes and unusually wide (132 feet) streets. The literal and spiritual heart of the city was the site where the temple would be built, and the city’s east/west and north/south avenues were named and numbered based on their proximity to it. As a result, there is no 3rd Avenue or 42nd Street in Salt Lake City, but rather 300 North, 300 South, and 4200 West (I think 4200 East would fall on top of the mountains.) To outsiders, Utah addresses can be confusing. What is “767 West 490 North?” That’s not an address. Surely it must be a setting on a compass or have something to do with longitude and latitude. Once you get used to the grid system, however, it is virtually impossible to get lost and directions are superfluous.

Though Young was faithful to the spirit of Smith’s early design, there was one fascinating element he chose to alter. In building frontier cities, Smith had envisioned city centers comprising residences and public buildings only. Farms were to be located outside the cities and residents could commute back and forth during the day to work them. Whereas the majority of the American west was characterized by individualism, both in spirit and claims to property, Smith’s vision was to build a society based on proximity and shared communal efforts. His outlook was remarkably similar to that of John Oglethorpe, who designed the city of Savannah, Georgia, not only as a haven for ghosts, but as a collection of carefully constructed urban wards, each of which corresponded to outlying farm and garden plots. The Utah landscape presented a unique set of challenges and Young adapted the plan by enlarging lot sizes to create a network of urban farms.

The legacy of Young’s efforts is a state full of grid-based cities, all easy to navigate, but some with bizarre variations in scenery. As cities have grown out of their farm-based origins, they have struggled with zoning. You can’t shut down or kick out the old farmer who still has an orchard and keeps chickens on his property nor can you tell his grandson he can’t build his split-level suburban dream house next door. The result is that many older areas have a schizophrenic character to them. Turn out of the cul-de-sac on which Tom’s parents live and you’ll find a powerful case in point. Here are a few things you can find in a 10 block span:

1. Just five blocks south is UVSC, Utah Valley State College. The school originally started as a small community college and has exploded over the past few decades into a full-fledged four year school granting thousands of degrees each year.

2. Only a few hundred feet from the school is the last remaining basement house on the street. These regional oddities were apparently the residence of choice for people who could afford to build only part of a house. Since you can’t start from the top, they built the basement, slapped a roof on top, and lived underground until their financial prospects brightened. Through bad fortune or the complacency of their owners, many houses never gained the additional stories they were promised. It will be a sad day when this one goes the way of the bulldozer.

An interesting side note here is that on both the Caribbean island of Dominica and the Greek island of Santorini (two of our all-time favorite places), homeowners do start from the top down. They build a skeleton of their future house and fill in the levels as finances and motivation dictate. Greek property owners get a tax break for having at least the beginnings of a building on their lots, so Santorini is littered with vacant concrete structures. Dominicans, on the other hand, actually inhabit their works in progress. It is commonly held logic that it is preferable to live above the debris and noise of construction (think sheetrock falling in your soup), so the top floor is finished first and lower floors in later years.

3. A van that wears clothes. The owner of this meticulously maintained vehicle lovingly dresses and undresses it each day to shield it from the effects of the high desert climate. He has affixed velcro tabs at regular intervals to the body of the van, which he then uses to attach a fascinating variety of fabric panels during the day. In the two months we’ve been here, we’ve only seen the van leave its roadside spot once.

4. A small herd of goats. I’m not sure if the owners are supplying local French restaurants with gourmet cheese or simply keeping this group as pets, but they always make the drive to the gas station (where I fill my jug) more fun.

5. An intense yet oddly beautiful garden. The Beehive is the Utah state symbol because it represents industry and self-sufficiency. Many Utahans interpret these traits literally and maintain vegetable gardens and fruit orchards on their properties. They feast on fresh produce in the summer, can and store the remainder for the winter, and brand themselves prepared for emergencies and disasters.

6. Two guys and a cockatoo. This one speaks for itself.

Technorati Tags: Brigham Young, Dominica, Joseph Smith, Round the World, Round-the-world, RTW, Salt Lake City, Santorini, Savannah, Urban Planning, Utah, UVSC

Although not on the same scale as New Jersey, Utah is often the subject of scorn, backhanded compliments, and ridicule. I admit it is one of only two states I know off where you can see polygamist compounds and punk rockers all in the same day (Arizona is the only other, and that is only near the Utah border). It also has its own political spectrum ranging from right wing to super ultra right wing. (I am glad to see the “Get us out of the UN” signs of my youth are either gone or less visible.) But Utah takes a bad rap for being overly hegemonic. Yes, over half the residents do not drink alcohol, but that does not mean they will pass laws preventing you from drinking, as long as you follow some very simple rules.

Beyond the Utah of punchlines is a wonderful state, one that grabs you at the border, entrances you with its beauty, and reminds you that you are alive. Based on my 20 years as a resident of the Beehive state, here are my favorite 6 things to do in Utah:

6. Southeastern Utah - If you have a week or two and want to get lost in America, I can think of no better place than Southeastern Utah. My dream escape would begin with a few days in the hub of mountain biking and four wheeling, Moab. For those who have been, the name brings back memories of slick red rock, desert scape, and a land which appears to have been created for wheeled vehicles. I would follow that up with a couple days camping at Capitol Reef and Arches National Parks. Often overshadowed by Zion and Bryce, Arches and Capitol Reef offer something the other two haven’t had for years– solitude and silence. It is important to make sure you keep Capitol Reef and Arches below Zion and Bryce on any list you create; this will keep the crowds at Zion and leave these two a little more open. After a couple of days sweating out the desert heat among the cathedrals and natural bridges, there is no better place to cool off than Lake Powell. Lake Powell has more shoreline than California. If you judge your water skiing based on the scenery, water conditions and the potential for a glass like surface, there is no better place to ski in the world. The lake is full of people from all over the desert southwest, so bring enough gas with you to get 3-5 hours away from the docks and the crowds.

5. The high Uintas - There is no better place in Utah to escape daily life than the high Uintas wilderness area. I wouldn’t advise getting lost here though. Every year a few intrepid cross country skiers, hikers, and backpackers lose their way and fail to return to their cars. But for those who have a general understanding of the points on the compass, this wilderness offers a unique terrain full of lakes to fish and mountains to climb. The Uinta Mountains are 13,000 feet high, a fact that gives Utahans a minor inferiority complex since Colorado’s peaks exceed 14,000 feet. They shouldn’t get too down on themselves though, seeing as Georgia doesn’t have any hills over 5000 feet and Rhode Island can’t boast a rock big enough to make it over 1000 feet. Amid the many mountains are deep pine forests, aspen-covered hills, and places so isolated the Unabomber might have felt lonely. I would tell you where to enter the wilderness to get to the isolated areas, but then they might not be so isolated.

4. Temple Square - It took 40 years to build the Salt Lake Temple and required the dedication and participation of the entire city during its construction. Today it stands as the center of the Mormon church, and is worth a half a day to just wander around, watch the brides get their pictures taken, and spend some time in quiet reflection. As we travel we like to seek out holy places. We have been to Jerusalem, Uluru, The Vatican, Hiroshima, and countless churches, monasteries, and temples around the world. They all have moved us, and we have been edified by them. If you cannot visit us at our home, Temple Square is the next best place to partake of our personal spirituality.

3. Back country winter activities - Skiing takes the headlines in Utah and it should. The state proudly claims the “greatest snow on earth,” and the skiing here is simply amazing. If you want to feel really alive, skip the resorts and head out on your own and cross country ski or snowshoe up a mountain. Both the Wasatch range and the Uintas are filled with trails and mountains to be explored. Make sure to check to find out the avalanche rating. If it is high, stay away.

2. Ceder Breaks and the Shakespeare Festival in Cedar City - I love juxtapositioning unrelated or opposing activities. For instance, in LA you can surf in the morning and ski in the afternoon. On Indonesia’s Komodo Island, we played with the dragons by morning and snorkeled with giant amberjacks by afternoon. For the best juxtaposition in Utah, stay at Brian Head ski resort about 25 miles northeast of Cedar City. Spend your mornings hiking around the forest or Cedar Breaks National Monument and your nights at one of the nation’s premier Shakespearean festivals.

1. Zion and Bryce - The only reason the Greeks thought Olympus was the home of the Gods was because they had not visited Zion and Bryce Canyon.

Technorati Tags: Family Travel, National Parks, Travel, Travel Writing, Utah

A friend recently turned me on to a fabulous book by fellow traveler Franz Wisner. In his supremely entertaining memoir, Honeymoon with My Brother, Wisner recalls how he was dumped by his girlfriend of a decade just days before his wedding. Instead of mourning his misfortune, he carried on with his wedding party and took his younger brother, Kurt, on what was supposed to be his honeymoon to Costa Rica. Inspired by his experience in the rainforest and a demotion at work, Wisner quit his job and invited his brother to embark on an extended round the world adventure. They traveled together for two years and learned a lot about foreign lands and each other along the way. Wisner’s witty musings from the road were published in magazines and newspapers during his absence, and upon his return he was offered a book deal with St. Martin’s Press. The book was so successful after being featured on The Today Show and Oprah that St. Martin’s signed the brothers to pen a second book. They take off on another exodus next month.

While Oprah hasn’t come calling yet, we’re hopeful that our adventure will likewise get people excited about travel and the potential it has to bring people together, both as families and as a worldwide community. Though many think we’re simply two fries short of a Happy Meal, we’ve found other kindred spirits in the travel world. Family travel blogger Isaac Sacolick of TripConnect featured us in his most recent post entitled Family of Six Goes on Yearlong Journey Around the World. When he interviewed me, he found our planning fascinating but admitted he’d like to hear how we’re feeling about everything six months from now. He has invited me to post to his blog, so I’ll plan on issuing that report in February. How could I resist a guy who labeled me “chief cool and calm Mom?”

Technorati Tags: Family Travel, Round the World, Round-the-world, RTW, Travel Writing, TripConnect

Our first big event to welcome Tom back to the extended family was a picnic in the park on Saturday. For many this would mean a drive to a nearby patch of city grass or a faraway lake, but in Orem it means a 15-minute ride into Provo Canyon and some of the most spectacular scenery this country has to offer. Just ask Robert Redford. His Sundance Ski Resort sits only a few miles up the road.

The canyon was carved by the Provo River, which alternately babbles and rages from the craggy peaks of the Wasatch Mountains down to the floor of the desert valley below. This erosion was no small feat of nature since the granite rock range averages between 9,000 and 10,000 feet in elevation. The second highest peak is Mount Timpanogas at 11,752 feet, almost every foot of which Dax scaled on an overnight Boy Scout hike last month. (He won’t admit it, but he’s buff.)

Amidst a grove of conifers and their more delicate deciduous cousins, the quaking aspens and cottonwoods, we plopped our group down on the meadow of Canyon Glen Park to soak up the fresh mountain air and unadulterated sunshine. Some reclined on blankets with babies while others chased preschoolers, but the majority engaged in a cutthroat game of the family’s current passion, bocce ball.

Per usual, Uncle Scott and his partner, Grandpa Lou, Read the rest of this entry »

With Tom’s arrival in Utah on Wednesday, we ended a five-week separation of our family. The kids and I are used to Dad being gone periodically–remember we’re using almost one million frequent flier miles, which Tom alone has earned, to fund our round the world plane tickets–but five weeks is extreme. We’ve spent many hours videoconferencing on our computers since mid-July, but an image on a screen is no substitute for the real thing. Just ask the kids. Getting disciplined by a talking head on a monitor you can walk away from is nowhere near as intimidating as looking up into the eyes of a 6′3″ enforcer. As with many families, there is a yin and a yang to ours and without dad we’re a little off balance. Now that he’s with us again, our harmony is restored and we can look forward to all the benefits of life with Tom. The top 6 are as follows:

1. He feeds us. Believe it or not, the kids haven’t eaten since he left in July.

2. He’s the only one who can launch the kids in the pool (or in front of the temple). My 5′2″ frame and little arms just don’t pack enough power to send the little ones spinning and flying through the air.

3. When the kids are in trouble, he can make them laugh and repent of their offenses. I just make them angry.

4. He can fix almost anything that goes wrong with our computers, iPods, or cameras.

5. He’s the only one who can speak a little bit of Mandarin, and that’s going to be important in China.

6. Did I mention he feeds us?

Technorati Tags: Kids, Round the World, Round-the-world, RTW, Togetherness, Yin Yang

I just stepped off the conveyer belt that has been moving me forward the last 13 years. It is very strange. Yesterday was my last day at work, but I woke up this morning and still checked email before 7:00. I did not check my calendar. Voicemail will all be forwarded by my assistant, I mean ex-assistant. For the next year, I am not the VP of blabidy blah. I have long struggled with the way Americans define themselves by what they do professionally and not who they are as people. Well today, I have forced myself to walk the walk, and…. It feels weird. I am sitting on a plane. It is not unlike one of the thousand of planes I have sat on over the last decade. I fly a lot. In fact, I have been proud to wear my 11 year Delta platinum status on my sleeve as another sign of what I do and how dedicated I am to it. However, this time it is different. There won’t be a crisis for me when I land. There isn’t a pile of Powerpoint documents, contracts, or business cases to go through. I am on a plane that is literally and figuratively taking me away from work and towards the family.

I am not sure what I will miss most about work. It will take me 2 weeks before it sinks in that this isn’t a normal vacation Right now the one thing I think I will miss most is the people. My departure was a great excuse for a month of celebration.

Superfriends, Cass “the voice” andra and The master with the pen Janetta with the sixintheworld cake.

My former assistants threw a great party at work complete with a www.sixintheworld.com cake. There were also dinners and a happy hour with great company and great food. I had numerous meaningful one-on-one conversations and email exchanges with coworkers in the weeks leading up to my departure, which leads me to think the one thing I will miss will be the people. Of course you could argue the world is full of people. We will actively try to meet many of them, but there is something different about the people with whom you work. I think there is a bond built because you are united in a cause bigger than yourself. As you work together you draw closer and if you have successes closer still.

I am counting on that philosophy being translatable from the workplace to the family. Although our adventure will include a lot of fun, jokes, and entertainment (not unlike work), we each will have roles to play, tasks to accomplish, and need to be a support system to one another. This blog, for example, will become more of a community effort. Over time, we will expand to podcasts and the occasional Vcast. Dax will step up as a writer and video editor, Mac will step up as a photographer and videographer, I will move from being the back end technician to more of a participant, and Asher and Kieran will get a combination of starring roles and menial tasks, perhaps craft services. When we are done, we will hopefully have created a great treasure for the family and grown together through the experience of both traveling and working together. In hindsight, I probably should have enjoyed this plane ride a little more. We are going to be very busy.

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